Yes, a leaking copper pipe can be fixed without soldering. The lasting repair is to cut out the damaged section and join the ends with a push-to-connect or press fitting, both recognized by the plumbing code when installed to the maker’s instructions. Repair clamps, epoxy putty and tape only hold until a proper repair is made.
Push-to-connect fittings are the usual choice for repairing copper pipe without soldering. The International Plumbing Code accepts push-fit fittings that meet the ASSE 1061 standard, and the SharkBite installation guide calls its fittings a permanent connection. A compression coupling, tightened with a wrench, is another no-heat option. Press fittings also make a lasting joint, but they need a certified press tool, so they are mostly a plumber’s method.
The joint is only as good as the prep. The cut has to be square, the burr removed, and the pipe pushed in to the full insertion depth marked on it. The same guide says not to put joints inside a concrete slab, and because push-fit fittings are not electrically continuous, a copper system needs a grounding jumper across the fitting.
Clamps, putty and tape are stopgaps. They buy time once the water is off, as in the first steps for what to do when a pipe bursts, but they do not stop corrosion and should not be closed up behind drywall.
A fitting fixes one spot, not the pipe around it. A pinhole often means the wall around it is thinning too, so another leak can open close by. A leak you cannot see, under the slab or inside a wall, has to be found with water leak detection before any fitting can go on.